Monthly Archives: March 2010

Liver, Garlic, Herbs, Onions

I was afraid of this recipe. There’s something about French food that makes lowbrow ingredients seem unreachably high end.

Or maybe just unreachably high end for a cook who loves spreadable offal, but who’s threatened, perhaps to an insane degree, by the word pâté. Just look at the shape of it and I think you will start to know what I mean. If soufflé had as many accents over its vowels I probably would have waited a hell of a lot longer to try to make it. (Crazy, right? I don’t know. Maybe a little. Words say things to me.)

But on the Bang-for-Your-Buck scale and the Couldn’t-Be-Easier-Scale, this recipe ranks high. Like, really high. This isn’t one of those fussy spreads that might be called “mousse” on a menu. It’s not the kind of spread that takes hours of coaxing into a shape, texture, and appearance that is so far removed from its original form that you might be tempted to scratch your head and ask, “So…wait. What is this again?” Continue reading

Mom’s Favorite Clams

I was thinking of doing something nice for my mom when I picked up a dozen Littleneck clams at Whole Foods.

I was thinking about New York City, about Little Italy, this clam house we both love there and always go back to. I find myself fending off the impulse to apologize for loving Little Italy. The thing is, my mother and I are perfectly content to be tourists when that’s exactly what we are. So this October, when we were seated on that patio again, and ordered, for the third time, oysters, white wine and baked clams, it was completely without irony.

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